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Глоссарии и словари бюро переводов Фларус

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Глоссарий по альпинизму и горному туризму - страница 2





z-pulley
    Also z-system. a particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse.
plunge step
    An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.
klemheist knot
    An alternative to the prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.
snow fluke
    An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. the fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.
no-hand rest
    An entirely leg-supported resting position during climbing that does not require hands on the rock.
deadman anchor
    An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. one common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.
yabo
    Another name for a sit start, a `yabo start` was named after john `yabo` yablonski[1].
dynamic motion
    Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. as opposed to static technique where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.
climbing wall
    Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.
beta flash
    Ascent of a climb on the first attempt with some knowledge beta of that climb, with no falls or hangdogging. also see on-sight.
on-sight;
thrutching
    Bad technique or `body climbing` specifically at mount arapiles
hanging belay
    Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.
gym climbing
    Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. this is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.
climbing gym;
technical climbing
    Climbing involving a rope and some means of protection, as opposed to scrambling or glacier travel.
multi-pitch climbing
    Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.
free solo
    Climbing without aid or protection. this typically means climbing without a rope.
free climbing
    Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.
piton catcher
    Clip-on string fastened to piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.
z-clipping
    Clipping into an anchor with the segment of rope from beneath the previous anchor, resulting in an unsafe configuration of the belay rope.
objective danger
    Danger in a climbing situation which comes from hazards inherent in the location of the climb, not depending on the climber`s skill level. most often these involve falling rock or ice, or avalanch...
rest step
    Energy-saving technique where unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, sometimes by "locking" knee of rear leg.
climbing shoe
    Footwear designed specifically for climbing. usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.
double rope technique (drt)
    For alpine and rock climbers this term implies the use of two separate ropes. for tree climbers this term is ambiguous but is usually interpreted as a synonym for doubled rope technique.
pressure breathing
    Forcefully exhaling to facilitate o2/co2 exchange at altitude. also called the "whittaker wheeze".
sirdar
    Head sherpa mountain guide.
hace
    High altitude cerebral edema - a severe, and often fatal, form of altitude sickness.
hape
    High altitude pulmonary edema - a serious form of altitude sickness.
rope jumping
    Jumping from objects using rock climbing equipment.
ice piton
    Long, wide, serrated piton once used for weak protection on ice.
choss
    Loose or "rotten" rock.
crampons
    Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.
carabiner
    Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. also known as crab or biner (pronounced beaner).
moving together
    Method of climbing – used on easy alpine ground – in which two or more climbers climb at the same time with running belays between them and fixed belays not being used.
fourteener
    Mountain that tops 14,000 feet (4,300 m) in the contiguous united states.
lieback
    Or layback. a climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.
climbing technique
    Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.
fist jam;
névê
    Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
gripped
    Scared. also over gripping the rock.
biner
    Carabiner.
head point
    See top rope. the practice of top-roping a hard trad route before leading it cleanly.
top rope;
solo climbing
    Setting and cleaning ones own protection on an ascent; climbing by oneself.
belay slave
    Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeated belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.
climbing gym
    Specialized indoor climbing centres. see gym climbing. (usually just called a climbing wall in britain).
gym climbing;
sit start
    Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. this is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. noted as sds in some topo guides.
barn-dooring
    Swinging out from the wall like a door on a hinge.
dynamic belay
    Technique of stopping a long fall using smooth braking to reduce stress on the protection points and avoid unnecessary trauma from an abrupt stop.
self-arrest
    The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.
retro-bolting
    The addition of bolts to an existing climb.
ablation zone
    The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.
buildering
    The art of climbing on buildings, which is often illegal.
bolt chopping
    The deliberate and destructive removal of one or more bolts.
sharp end
    The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.
first ascent
    The first successful completion of a route.
sewing machine leg
    The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. also known as "scissor leg", "elvis presley syndrome", or "disco knee". can often be remedied by bringing the heel of...
bouldering
    The practice of climbing on large boulders. typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.
abseil
    The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. also known as rappel.
rappel
    The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. also known as abseil or roping down..
clipping in
    The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.
rebolting
    The replacement of bolts on an existing climb.
single rope technique (srt)
    The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points.
pinch hold
    This is a hold where you must pinch it to hold on. they come in various sizes.
face climbing
    To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not crack climbing.
crack climbing
    To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. see jamming and chimney.
jamming and chimney;
honed
    To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.
top rope
    To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.
head point;
pseudo leading
    To climb a wall toprope with having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of lead climbing clipping. the other rope is normally not connected to any belayer below and is only there t...
grovel
    To climb with obviously poor style or technique.
pinkpoint
    To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. also see clean and redpoint.
clean and redpoint;
red point
    To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). also see clean and pinkpoint.
clean and pinkpoint;
downclimb
    To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.
dead hang
    To hang limp, such that weight is held by ligament tension rather than muscles.
dialled
    To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.
wired;
pumped
    To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm), that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. often easy activities such as holding a camera become difficult or...
alpine start
    To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.
peak-bagging
    To systematically attain designated summits under prescribed conditions.
smearing
    To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.
размазывание;
gorp
    Trail mix for periodic nibbling to keep high energy level between meals on long climbs or hikes. an backronym for `good ol` raisins & peanuts`




Глоссарий по альпинизму и горному туризму - страница 2


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